Early Spring 2023, big trees of Lao Man E, sweet varietal
Aggressive profile, strong sweetness, medium bitterness and astringency
Plenty of Huigan and Chaqi in a classic Lao Man E fashion
This 2023 vintage comes out particularly aggressive. the bitterness and astringency is up a notch compared to last year. Powerful upfront sweetness, characteristic of Southern Menghai, supported by a medium level of bitterness and astringency, this is the sweet varietal, hence the bitterness is short-lived.
Good tea for a long session, it's a waste if you don't brew it ten times. The Huigan will build up as the session goes, the bitterness is high at the start of the session and decreases steadily, while the brew keeps giving sweetness for a while.
We first visited this village in 2012, it was already famous at the time, mainly for the high bitterness of its tea. Throughout the years, Lao Man E has always increased in price and renown, despite the competition of many new contenders in the fame arena.
The village is located South of Menghai, let me show you a map of the area:
You could think high prices in tea is the result of hype. Yet, ask any tea professional in Menghai, and they will tell you nothing beats Lao Man E in terms of heavy sweetness, supported by moderate to high bitterness. Even large factories invest in Lao Man E material for their high end blend. It's a tea that can sell without mentioning the name, the taste of the tea makes it worth its price. Of course, we do here on Farmerleaf because we chose the path of transparency and exploration of the terroirs.
Its altitude is very low compared to other famous mountains, only 1200m in the village! Jingmai is at 1600m, Lao Banzhang at 1800m and gardens in Lincang or Ailao Mountain can grow up to 2200m.
We usually associate higher altitude with better quality, and Lao Man E is an interesting counter-example.
Maybe we should think a minute about what we call quality. In the tea industry at large, it's often related to fragrance. But that's not what you'd think as a Pu-erh tea drinker, right?
Lao Man E has decent fragrance, it is a very understated kind of fragrance, the opposite of Lincang teas. It won't burst in your nose, but will linger for a long time after drinking, stealthily coming back from your throat. The nature of this Lao Man E fragrance, which could be assimilated to Bulang area as a whole, is leathery, animal and herbaceous; don't expect a festival of flowers here, we're not in Jingmai here.
From the first cup, you can expect a good bitterness punch from a fine Lao Man E. Good bitterness should not linger for long, it should vanish within seconds, leaving sweetness in its trail.
There are two varietals of old-growth tea trees in Lao Man E: bitter and sweet. The bitter varietal has both long-lasting and short-lived bitterness, it is an intense experience that few people actually enjoy.
This is why we selected the sweet varietal, which displays a moderate to high bitterness, but only of a short-lived nature. This varietal is more expensive than the bitter one because it is the most enjoyed and sought-after.
Another characteristic of Lao Man E is to have a low level of astringency in relation to the bitterness. In Chinese, we tend to group the two tastes together in a single word, but Lao Man E is well known for being bitter but not that astringent.
Lao Man E will definitely give you a buzz if you're sensitive. We recommend you eat a good meal before drinking that kind of tea. While Jingmai tea tends to give out its power straight away, you need to be more patient with Lao Man E (and all Bulang teas in general).
Cup after cup, sweetness will accumulate on your gums and creep down your throat, you'll get plenty of that menthol effect that we like to call Hui Gan: a sweet and refreshing feel in the throat.
The tea is very long brewing, you can easily get 20 steeps out of a handle of leaves. This is partly due to the size of the leaves, they are among the largest you can find in Xishuangbanna. To give you an idea, we usually cook the leaves for 20 minutes in Jingmai, but in Lao Man E, they need at least 35 minutes.
When you're brewing the leaves, the water makes its way through the center of the leaves to dig out that good juice, and it can take some time, during which you'll be in heaven.
If you want even more information about this tea and the recent history of the village, you can watch this interview that we shot with Ai Xiang Nan, the producer of this tea: